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Buddhist Terraces
The city was still to see some minor construction, modest
again in scale but remarkable in its testimony to the spread
of a new religion, Theravada Buddhism. Of these original
wooden Buddhist worship halls, all that remains today are
the stone foundations. Many are still active sites of worship,
and may date to the period following the abandon of Angkor
as the royal capital. Existent Brahmanic temples such as
Ta Tuot were sculpted with Buddhist reliefs.
The Western Prasat Top was to undergo a series of modifications, both architectural
and artistic, including the sacred delimitation of the temple
with Buddhist border stones (seima).
The Tep Pranam-Palilay area, which may well have been
associated with Buddhism since early times, took on greater
importance. A group of Buddhist worship halls were built
around the Bayon. These satellite temples are known today
as Preah En Tep, Preah Ang Kok Thlok, Preah Ngok. Few of
these Buddhist constructions can be precisely dated. It
is however clear that Angkor was largely Theravadin when,
around 1432, after a long series of battles, Siamese troops
finally drove the Khmer court out of Angkor.
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Towards the end of the 16th
century, Portuguese and Spanish adventurers travelled to
Angkor. They were fascinated by the "walled city,"
"one of the wonders of the world," making particular
note of the Bayon and the Royal Palace. A handfull of Japanese
also came to Angkor in the early 17th century. Yet we do
not know if these Buddhist pilgrims visited Angkor Thom
as they did Angkor Vat.
Around the middle of the 19th century Angkor was "rediscovered"
by a British photographer and French explorers and apprehended
as an object for study, primarily by the Ecole Français
d'Extrême-Orient (EFEO). Angkor Thom was progressively
cleared of vegetation. The Bayon began to exercise its magic
on visitors and scholars alike, who continue to study its
mysteries to the present day. It is interesting to note,
finally, that throughout the tribulations of history, traces
of the Angkorian past remain in the collective memory: in
both the 16th and 19th centuries, it was local inhabitants
who showed the emplacement of the ancient Royal Palace to
European visitors.
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